Armenian News... A Topalian.... 6 editorials

ARKA, Armenia

May 30 2019

President Sarkissian: pan-Armenian games is incentive to bring closer Armenia, Artsakh and Diaspora

Some 4,000 ethnic Armenian athletes from Armenia, Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh) and the vast Armenian Diaspora are expected to arrive in Armenia later this year participate in the Pan-Armenian Games 2019, Ishkhan Zakaryan, the head of the Pan-Armenian Games Delegation, said at a meeting with Armenian President Armen Sarkissian today.

Representatives of the Armenian Diaspora from more than 35 cities will take part in the Games  Completions in  7 out of 17 kinds of sports will be held in Artsakh. The Games and their opening, to be held under the slogan “Unification by sport”, will be held in Artsakh for the first time.

Sarkissian welcomed the holding of the Pan-Armenian Games and the very idea of the event, stressing that the unifying spirit of the games should also be used to raise Armenia-Artsakh-Diaspora ties to a new level.

Sarkissian also said that the Pan-Armenian Games can become an incentive for pan-Armenian integration. Noting the special significance of holding the Games in Artsakh, he stressed that for thousands of Armenians across the globe, this is an excellent opportunity to visit Artsakh.

The President expressed readiness to help in holding the Games 

RFE/RL Report

New Gambling Restrictions Spark Protests In Armenia

May 29, 2019

Robert Zargarian

Employees of a betting firm blocked a major street in Yerevan on Wednesday to protest against severe restrictions on betting and gambling planned by the 

pro-government majority in Armenia’s parliament.

A bill drafted late last year by the parliament’s deputy speaker Alen Simonian would close the vast majority of hundreds of betting shops that have sprung up across the country in the last few years. They would be allowed to operate only in four Armenian towns: Jermuk, Meghri, Sevan and Tsaghkadzor.

Simonian and his supporters argue that a rising number of Armenians are spending a disproportionate share of their incomes on betting as well as gambling. According to them, tens of thousands of people have already incurred major debts as a result.

Armenian betting firms have strongly objected to the proposed measures, clinching a concession from the Armenian parliament committee on economic issues. Under an amended version of the bill drafted approved by the committee last week, the ban on betting shops would come into force on November 2020.

There would be no such delay for a ban on video slot machines also envisaged by the bill. Such machines can be found at most petrol and pressurized gas sstations in the country. Virtually all of them belong to the GoodWin betting agency that organized the protest near the parliament building in Yerevan.

GoodWin’s director, Sargis Mikaelian, and employees said the removal of the gambling machines should also be delayed until the end of next year. Mikaelian 

argued that unlike other private firms GoodWin does not organize online gambling not covered by the bill.

The protesters unblocked a section of Marshal Bagramian Avenue adjacent to the National Assembly building only after the chairman of the parliament committee, Babken Tunian, agreed to meet with their representatives.

“They promised to hold further discussions and take into consideration our comments and concerns,” Mikaelian said afterwards.

Meanwhile, Simonian dismissed arguments that the bill would cost the GoodWin workers their jobs. “The machines are not operated by human beings,” he said. “So they are exploiting the issue. I’m sure that it won’t work.”

Similar restrictions were already imposed on Armenian casinos in 2014. A law which took effect at the time stipulates that casinos can freely operate only in Armenia’s three most popular resort towns, including Jermuk and Tsaghkadzor. Casino owners can do business in Yerevan and other parts of the country only if they invest at least $100 million in their gambling sites.

Armenpress.am

 30 May, 2019

Photo-exhibition on Armenia’s velvet revolution opened at UN

The Permanent Mission of Armenia to the United Nations hosted a reception and a photo exhibition on May 28 entitled "Armenia's Velvet revolution" at the UN headquarters. The event displayed photographs showcasing the progress of the peaceful civic movement, marches and demonstrations that took place in Armenia in spring 2018, ARMENPRESS was informed from the press service of the MFA Armenia.

Attended by a large number of ambassadors and delegates of the UN member states, representatives of the UN Secretariat, as well as members of the Armenian community, the event featured remarks by the Permanent Representative of Armenia to the UN Mher Margaryan.

In his welcoming remarks, the Permanent Representative of Armenia pointed out that the events which took place last year marked a new chapter in the history of Armenia, highlighting the important symbolism of holding an exhibition dedicated to the Velvet Revolution and celebrating the First Republic of Armenia at the United Nations on 28 May. Noting that democracy, promotion of human rights, empowerment of women and youth in the political and social life are important priorities for the Government of Armenia, Mher Margaryan recalled Armenia’s candidacy for the membership of the UN Human Rights Council for the term 2020-2022.

Ruben Rubinyan, Chair of the Standing Committee on Foreign Relations of the National Assembly of Armenia, briefed the guests on the evolution of the events depicted in the exhibit as well as on the parliamentary activities in the field of foreign relations.

RFE/RL Report

Pashinian Touts 2019 Growth Figures

May 30, 2019

Sargis Harutyunyan

Economic growth in Armenia accelerated to 7.1 percent in the first quarter of this year, according to official statistics cited by Prime Minister Nikol 

Pashinian on Thursday.

Pashinian also touted fresh data from the national Statistical Committee (Armstat) indicating that this growth continued unabated in April.

“This gives us reason to say that the economy is in a good mood,” he told a weekly meeting of his cabinet in Yerevan. “We have to stimulate that good mood 

through targeted capital spending and ultimately achieve even better indicators.”

Pashinian said continued economic reforms should help the Armenian economy “convert the good mood into a phase of lasting and sustainable development.”

Armenia’s Gross Domestic Product increased by 5.2 percent in real terms last year, down from 7.5 percent reported by Armstat in 2017. In its 2018 state budget bill approved by the parliament in December, Pashinian’s government forecast a growth rate of 4.9 percent for this year.

“[Full-year growth] will be a bit faster,” Economic Development Minister Tigran Khachatrian told reporters after the cabinet session. “I’ll give a more precise figure when we move closer to the end of the year.”

Armstat figures show that trade, other services and construction were the main driving forces behind first-quarter growth. In particular, the Statistical 

Committee recorded a 26.5 percent surge in financial services provided in Armenia.

The country’s industrial output was up by only 2 percent in January-March 2019 mainly because of a downturn in the domestic mining industry. That in turn explains why Armenian exports shrunk by more than 8 percent, to $543 million, in the same period.

In its comprehensive policy program approved by the parliament in February, the government pledged to ensure that the domestic economy expands by at least 5 percent annually for the next five years. It said rising exports will be the “main engine” of that growth.

The program reaffirms Pashinian’s repeated pledges to carry out an “economic revolution” that will significantly reduce poverty and unemployment. It says the government will improve tax administration, ease business regulations, guarantee fair competition, and stimulate exports and innovation.

Khachatrian said on May 3 that Armenia’s business environment has already improved significantly since last year’s “velvet revolution” which brought Pashinian to power. The minister said the new government has broken up economic monopolies, created a level playing field for all businesses and eliminated “systemic corruption.”

Sputnik News Service

May 29, 2019 

FACTBOX - Russia-Armenia Relations

MOSCOW, May 29 (Sputnik) - Russian President Vladimir Putin and Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan have taken part on Wednesday in the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU) summit in the Kazakh capital of Nur-Sultan.

Diplomatic relations between Russia and Armenia were established on April 3, 1992.

Since then, the two countries have signed over 200 interstate, intergovernmental and interagency treaties and agreements. Fundamental documents include the Treaty of Friendship, Cooperation and Mutual Assistance from August 29, 1997, and the Declaration of Allied Cooperation in the 21st Century between Russia and Armenia, which was signed on September 26, 2000.

Russian-Armenian relations are defined by regular top- and high-level contacts. They includes a large number of bilateral meetings between then-Armenian President Serzh Sargsyan, who served as the head of state from 2008 to 2018, and Putin.

Sargsyan made his first state visit to Russia on October 23-25, 2011. Putin reciprocated by traveling to Armenia on December 2, 2013.

The two leaders proceeded to meet numerous times in 2014. The first time was on the sidelines of the informal Collective Security Treaty Organization (CSTO) summit in Moscow on May 8, then in Sochi for Nagorno-Karabakh peace talks on August 9, and again in Moscow on November 6 and December 24.

On April 24, 2015, Putin visited Armenia to participate in events dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the genocide of Armenians in the Ottoman Empire and hold talks with Sargsyan.

From May 8-9, 2015, the then-Armenian president was in Moscow to take part in celebrations marking the 70th anniversary of Russia's victory in the Great Patriotic War.

In 2016, the two presidents had three full-fledged bilateral meetings. They met in Moscow twice during Sargsyan's working visits on March 10 and August 10, and in St. Petersburg on the sidelines of the trilateral summit on Nagorno-Karabakh settlement on June 20.

That year also saw the leaders take part in a Supreme Eurasian Economic Council (SEEC) meeting in Astana on May 31, meeting of the Commonwealth of Independent Nations (CIS) Heads of State Council on September 16 in Bishkek, and session of the CSTO on October 14 in Yerevan. They also met during the EAEU and the CSTO in St. Petersburg on December 26.

In 2017, Sargsyan came to Moscow for an official visit on March 15 and to Sochi for a short working visit on August 23. The presidents met again in Moscow on November 15 of that year, during which time they attended a ceremony marking the start of the Armenian Culture Days in Russia.

The two leaders continued to meet at various events and forums in 2017. They included the SEEC meeting in Kyrgyzstan and informal meeting of the heads of the CSTO member states in April; meetings of the CIS Heads of State Council and the SEEC in Sochi on October 11; a CSTO session in Minsk on November 30; and informal meeting of the heads of the CIS member states in the Moscow region on December 26.

In March 2018, Armen Sarkissian won the presidential election in Armenia, and on April 25 of that year Putin held a telephone conversation with the new leader.

On May 8, 2018, Putin had a telephone conversation with new Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan to congratulate him on taking office.

The first meeting between Putin and Pashinyan took place on May 14 on the sidelines of the EAEU summit in Sochi.

On June 13, 2018, the Russian leader met with Pashinyan in Moscow for the opening of the FIFA World Cup.

Then Sarkissian traveled to Moscow, where he stayed from July 14-15, to attended a gala concert starring world opera stars at the Bolshoi Theater ahead of the FIFA World Cup final and then the final itself and closing ceremony the following day.

On September 8, 2018, Pashinyan paid a working visit to Moscow and met with Putin. They discussed key issues regarding the development of Russian-Armenian relations and cooperation in the Eurasian region, in particular, within the EAEU and the CSTO.

Twenty days later, Putin and Pashinyan took part in a meeting of the CIS Council of Heads of State in Tajikistan’s capital of Dushanbe. They also met on November 8 at the CSTO summit in the Kazakh city of Astana, and on December 6 at the session of the SEEC and during an informal CIS summit in St. Petersburg.

On December 27, 2018, Putin held talks with Pashinyan who arrived in Russia for a working visit.

The governments of the two countries have also been developing a constructive relationship.

From January 24-25, 2017, then-Armenian Prime Minister Karen Karapetyan came to Russia for an official visit.  Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev reciprocated with a trip to Armenia from October 25-27 of that year.

On June 14, 2018, Medvedev met with Pashinyan to discuss key issues regarding bilateral trade, economic and humanitarian cooperation.

On January 25, 2019, negotiations between Medvedev and Pashinyan took place in Moscow at Armenia's initiative, during which the heads of government discussed key issues relating to Russian-Armenian trade and economic cooperation.

The prime ministers met again on April 29 of that year to hold talks prior to a Eurasian Intergovernmental Council meeting in Yerevan.

The governments of the two countries continue to maintain regular contacts through the CIS and the EAEU.

The countries are also engaged in active contacts at ministerial and departmental levels and actively develop interparliamentary ties.

On June 7, 2018, Foreign Minister of Armenia Zohrab Mnatsakanyan came to Moscow for a working visit.

Three and a half months later, on September 26, Mnatsakanyan and Russian Foreign Minister Sergey Lavrov had a conversation in New York on the sidelines of the 73rd session of the United Nations General Assembly.

The top diplomats met again this year on February 16 on the sidelines of the Munich Security Conference.

The two countries have correlating positions on most of the key international problems and cooperate on various international platforms, including the United Nations, the CIS and the CSTO.

Russia along with the United States and France co-chair the Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE) Minsk Group, which plays an active mediating role in the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict.

Last month on April 15, a working meeting of the foreign ministers of Russia, Armenia and Azerbaijan was held in Moscow at Russia's initiative to discuss the prospects for advancing the negotiation process in the Nagorno-Karabakh peace process.

Russia is Armenia’s key foreign trade partner, and bilateral economic cooperation is only improving.

In 2018, the bilateral foreign trade increased by 12.7 percent year-on-year, amounting to $1.97 billion. Meanwhile, Russian exports and imports came out to $1.34 billion and $630 million, respectively.

Russian exports to Armenia include minerals and metals, machinery, food and agricultural products, and equipment and transport systems. Imports include food and agricultural goods, textiles and footwear, and precious metals and stones.

The Russian-Armenian Intergovernmental Commission for Economic Cooperation is working effectively and has recently met in the Russian city of Rostov-on-Don in April.

Russian Railways, international group of mining companies GeoProMining Gold, VTB Bank and aluminum giant Rusal are among the largest Russian companies operating in Armenia.

Russian-Armenian defense industry cooperation is aimed at ensuring the security of both countries and the southern flank of the CIS, as well as stability in the Trans-Caucasus. The Armenian Armed Forces perform alert duty missions as part of the CIS Integrated Air Defense System, and the 102nd Russian military base is located in the republic. Russia and Armenia also have a joint military force.

In April 2016, the two governments signed an space cooperation agreement. In this context, a Russian Global Navigation Satellite System (GLONASS) station opened on the territory of the Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory in Armenia in December 2018.

Cultural and humanitarian contacts traditionally play an important part in Russian-Armenian relations. In 2016, Armenia successfully organized the Days of Russia, Week of Russian Cinema, Days of Moscow and St. Petersburg, and Days of the Russian Word festivals. The following year, the Days of Armenian Culture were held in Russia.

Armenia is very popular among Russian tourists, with 684,000 of them traveling there in 2018 alone.

Roads and Kingdoms

May 30 2019

25 Things to Know Before You Go to Yerevan

From wine to brandy to dressing for the opera, a smart guide to Armenia’s ancient capital.

Armenia’s capital, Yerevan, is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities—29 years older than Rome. Throughout its 2,800-year history, kingdoms, invasions, Communism, and dictatorships have come and gone. In 2018, Armenia’s Velvet Revolution, a series of peaceful protests, ushered in government reforms and a newfound sense of optimism. Today, Yerevan is a city of one million, with a European ambience, lined with wide boulevards and sidewalk cafes. After independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Armenia became a place of pride and pilgrimage for the world’s 7-10-million strong Armenian diaspora (far larger than Armenia’s population of around 3 million). Now, it welcomes more and more visitors annually. Yerevan is cosmopolitan, safe, and affordable—with museums, hotels, overly generous portions of food and wine, and even a night at the opera going for friendly prices.

1 Visit! 

In the last few years, Armenia has granted citizens from a long list of countries, including the United States, visa-free entry. There are no fees or paperwork for visitors as long as they have a valid passport, and tourists can stay in the country for up to six months—a generous time-frame. Daily flights from Paris, Moscow, and Dubai cost around $200 round-trip.

2 Expect hospitality. 

In Yerevan, hospitality is king, and residents abide by the adage “A guest has a place over the host’s head,” meaning the guest is more important than the host. In post-independence Yerevan in the 1990s, food was scarce and there was limited electricity and hot water, but Yerevantzis were always eager to help strangers and grateful that people made an effort to visit. When I first traveled to Armenia the country was six years out of Soviet rule and people struggled daily, but our taxi driver invited us for dinner at his home. The evening turned out to be one of the most memorable of the trip, from the juicy khorovadz (barbecue), to an impromptu piano performance by his conservatory-graduate daughter, to playing in the chicken coop with his toddler grandson. 

3 Drink the water. 

Fresh, cold, and clean water is plentiful in Yerevan. The water system was in bad shape after the fall of the Soviet Union, when there were frequent shortages, but the government’s efforts to reform it with the help of the private sector have been a success story, and the World Bank described Yerevan as having “clean and constant water.” It’s also touted to be some of the tastiest and purest drinking water in the world. When Yerevan celebrated its 2,750th anniversary in 1968, the city built 2,750 water fountains for its residents—and you can drink from them. 

4 Eat like a king. 

Meals in Yerevan are hearty, delicious, and affordable. Traditional dishes include dolma (grape leaves stuffed with meat or rice), mante (baked meat dumplings served with yogurt), lavash (thin wood-fired bread), lahmajun (thin dough topped with spicy mincemeat) ghapama (a stuffed pumpkin dish so revered a folk song was written in its honor) and khorovadz. Start with Mer Taghe for its thin-crust lahmajun, and Anteb, a Syrian-Armenian influenced restaurant, for the mante. Hit Dolmama—one of Yerevan’s long-running restaurants serving traditional dishes —for its signature dish, dolma, or khashlama, stewed meat cooked in wine. For lunch with a view of Mount Ararat, try Cascade Royal, at the peak of the Cascade, the limestone stairway. The menu is a fusion of Armenian and Italian (for example Lake Sevan whitefish and Penne Arabbiatta) which can be a nice change from local cuisine. Try their signature teas that are made with chunks of fresh fruits, such as strawberries and apricots. (Note, this is an upscale place and there is a dress code.) For a quick on-the-go spot, try the Green Bean Coffee Shop,Yerevan’s first 100 percent non-smoking coffee shop. Breakfast is good here, particularly the vegetable omelet and the mastoun cup—fresh yogurt served with jam or honey.

5 Tip a little. 

When you receive a bill at a cafe or restaurant, the price will include tax and tip, but it’s customary to leave an additional tip of 500 drams (around US$1). 

6 Stay online. 

Public hotspots and Free Wi-Fi in cafes and restaurants are widespread. But for uninterrupted service, buy a prepaid data SIM card from VivaCell at the airport, or at one of the company’s many locations around the city that will cost anywhere from US$5 to US$15, depending on the amount of data and minutes. 

7 Go shopping for money. 

It’s difficult to exchange Armenian drams outside the country, so bring cash with you and exchange some at the airport for immediate use, and then find better rates once you’re in Yerevan. You can change money in banks, but also, conveniently, in the city’s supermarkets, such as Sas, which has stores throughout Yerevan’s city center and has the most competitive exchange rates. 

8 Carry cash… 

Many stores, cafes, restaurants, and bars accept credit cards, but cash is always preferred, to avoid foreign transaction rates and fees. If you need to use credit cards, use Visa and Mastercard—American Express service is limited. 

9 … and small bills for taxis. 

Yerevan is an easy city to get around, and taxis are cheap: The rate is usually 100-150 drams (30 cents) per kilometer, but you can arrange for a flat rate. Bring small bills, because drivers often say they don’t have change. There is also GG Taxi and Uber for cash-free ride-hailing.

10 Feel at home. 

An increase in tourism over the last decade has opened up accommodation options, including international chains like Marriott, Radisson, and Hilton. The Marriott, formerly the Armenia Hotel during the Soviet era, has long been a prime spot for people-watching during the summers at the outdoor cafe overlooking the busy Republic Square. Also check out the boutique hotels Tufenkian Heritage Hotel and Grand Yerevan Hotel. There is also Airbnb, and apartments often have picturesque views of Mount Ararat, are in convenient locations, and cost around $30 a night for a one-bedroom. As a bonus, owners are usually living nearby and can be on-hand to help. The best areas to stay in are near Republic Square (Abovyan Nalbandyan and Amiryan Streets) and the Opera (Sayat Nova, Tumanyan, and Mashots Streets).

11 Gaze upon Mount Ararat. 

Yerevan has changed during its 2,800 years of history, but the view of Mount Ararat has not. To the world, Mount Ararat is (perhaps) where Noah’s Ark ended up, but for Armenians, it stirs an unfulfilled yearning—for a mountain that can be seen, but not touched. It remains on Turkey’s side of the border, although it is on historically Armenian soil. Thanks to closed borders between the two countries and Turkish blockades, Armenians can only access the mountain through Turkey. But there are many places in Yerevan to get a good view of Mount Ararat. One of the prime spots is from the top of the Cascade, the imposing limestone stairway, at sunrise or sunset. The view from Victory Park is also great, and for an up close and personal perspective, head to the sacred monastery of Khor Virap, about a 40-minute drive outside the city.

12 Look twice before crossing the street.

Even if it is your right of way. Take extra care on the streets, because drivers don’t always obey pedestrian crossings—or traffic laws. Although the city has set up more cameras and traffic lights and has increased punishments for violations, the number of cars on the roads has increased, and there is some aggressive driving.

13 Dress up for the opera… 

Yerevan has high culture at low prices. For around US$5, you can see a world-class opera or ballet, from Verdi’s La Traviata to Aram Khachaturian’s Gayane. The Opera Theater has two concert halls: the Aram Khatchaturian Theater (1,400 seats) and the Alexander Spendiaryan Opera (1,200 seats). You can get tickets at the box office before a show, email tickets@opera.am, or go through third-party ticketing sites, such as toms.am. Prices range from US$2-$25—though the cheaper tickets sell out fast. To secure one, the best way is to buy it in advance at the Opera’s ticket booth, which is open 7 days a week. Note that locals get dressed up for a night out at the theater, so follow suit: skip the sneakers, shorts, and jeans. (Note: The Opera Theater is not wheelchair accessible). 

14 …or just soak up the street sounds. 

You’ll often hear the wailing duduk (a woodwind instrument similar to a flute) or the vibrant accordion on street corners around Yerevan as talented musicians play for fun while people of all ages gather around to shoorch(“circle”) dance on Northern Avenue and Republic Square. 

15 Catch some live music. 

Local and international bands play at Calumet Ethnic Lounge Bar, where you can sit on floor pillows and drink local beers, such as Kotayk, while listening to rock, folk, and jazz music. Calumet fosters an open atmosphere, welcoming jam sessions and art exhibitions. And don’t forget to visit Malkhas Jazz Club (named for its founder, jazz musician Levon Malkhasian) and write a message on the wall. (Note: The club is not smoke-free.) For a table with a good view of the musicians, make sure to call in advance (+374 10 53 53 50).

16 Educate yourself. 

Yerevan has over 50 museums, many of which have free admission. Highlights include the Matenadaran, where visitors can view hand-drawn illuminated manuscripts, and the Sergei Parajanov Museum, dedicated to the renowned filmmaker (one of the few museums open 7 days a week). The National Gallery of Armenia in Republic Square features the rare works of the famous Armenian painter Ivan Aivazovsky, which is well worth the US$3 admission price. The Cafesjian Center for the Arts is the city’s newest museum and focuses on contemporary art (the sculpture garden is a must-see) with modest admission fees of US$2 for adults and free entry for seniors and children up to the age of 12. To learn more about the Armenian Genocide and its aftermath, visit the Armenian Genocide Museum-Institute, (free admission) but be sure to arrive by 4:30 p.m., when the final guests of the day are allowed to enter. Most museums are closed on Mondays and have varied opening times during the week—so check out their websites in advance. 

17 Cool down on the Metro. 

Each of the Yerevan Metro’s 10 stations are ornately decorated, with walls covered in white marble, sculptures, and paintings. Built during the Soviet era, the Metro, which is 100 drams a ride (25 cents) also provides relief during hot summer months. Keep an eye out for Sasuntsi Davit Metro stop, which has bronze reliefs of animals and symbols from Armenian epic poems around the ticket booth.

18 Travel like a local. 

Minibuses (known as marshrutkas) are a relic from the Soviet era, and transport people throughout Yerevan and beyond (including Gyumri, Yeghegnadzor, Nagorno-Karabakh, and Tbilisi). Route numbers are displayed on the dashboard. Each trip only costs 100 drams (to be paid when exiting) and you have to tell the driver when to pull over, because there are no set timetables and stops. But be warned: marshrutkas are often crowded. 

19 Drink brandy…  

During the 19th century, Armenia had a thriving brandy industry, partly to meet Russia’s demand for cognac. (And, according to popular legend, Winston Churchill acquired a taste for Armenia’s famous brandy, Ararat.) Taste the spirit, made from Armenian white grapes and spring water, at the Ararat Museum. The highlight is the tasting at the end of the tour, when you pair the brandy with chocolate. It’s not just Armenia’s national drink; brandy is also used for medicinal purposes, such as soothing stomach pains and indigestion. The world is also taking note—a 70-year-old bottle of Ararat brandy sold for $120,000 at Sotheby’s in 2016.

20 …and wine. 

The wine scene in Yerevan is growing as more wine bars open up along Martiros Saryan Street, including In Vino, which holds wine tastings and special events hosted by local vineyard owners. Armenia is thought to be one of the first wine-producing countries (archaeologists discovered the world’s oldest winery here, which dates back 6,000 years), and it’s become a big business over the last few years. Look out for the local wines Areni (named for the region where winemaking is thought to originate), Karas, and Zohrah, which has been described as one of the best wines in the world.

21 Play chess. 

Armenia is the only country in the world that requires chess classes at school. People play chess all over Yerevan, from older men starting impromptu games on the outdoor public chess set in Charles Aznavour Square to kids practicing their skills at the Tigran Petrosian Chess House. Pose with the Monument to the Backgammon Player statue on Gevorg Kotchar Street and join in one of the many games being played nearby.

22 Go to church.

As the first nation to adopt Christianity—in 301 A.D.—it’s no wonder that Armenia is known as the land of churches. Armenia has around 4,000 monasteries and sanctuaries, but its crown jewel is the Holy Etchmiadzin Cathedral, located a few minutes outside Yerevan proper and regarded by some historians as the world’s oldest cathedral and monastery. Thousands from around the world come on pilgrimages to Etchmiadzin, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. For the most memorable experience, attend the Sunday morning (11 a.m.) Divine Liturgy (Badarak). The full service lasts about two hours, but you can enter and exit as you please. Be mindful of the etiquette: Make the sign of the cross when exiting and entering, don’t chew gum, don’t cross your legs, and women should cover their heads with a veil or scarf. The easiest way to travel to Etchmiadzin is by taxi, which is about a 20-minute ride outside of Yerevan’s center and a US$8-10 cab ride. Minibuses also run on the 108 line every 30 minutes from Yerevan Station to Etchmiadzin for US$1. (Note: the cathedral is undergoing restoration work and parts of it will be under scaffolding until 2020.)

23 Hit the markets. 

Visitors can find one-of-a-kind souvenirs such as handmade duduks made from apricot wood and intricately sewn tablecloths at Vernissage, a large open-air market in the city center. For those seeking retail heaven, there is the Yerevan Mall, with the usual international chains. But if you want to shop among locals, head to G.U.M. market for fresh fruits, meat, and vegetables, and traditional Armenian lavash bread. Samples the dried fruits as you enter (including sujukh, threaded walnuts dipped in sweet spiced syrup), taste of basturma (seasoned, air dried cured beef) and get huge blocks of local cheeses. (Keep in mind everything is priced by weight.)

24 Wander the Pink City. 

Yerevan is known as The Pink City, thanks to the pink hues of volcanic douf rock used to construct many of the city’s prominent buildings. The city has diverse architecture, from the neoclassical edifices in the Republic Square punctuated with Armenian flourishes to the Soviet homage of the Railway Station and Zvartnots Tower. The douf buildings lend the city an additional color dimension, because the rock changes color throughout the day, depending on the sunlight. To see this mixture up close, walk along Pushkin, Abovyan, and Saryan Streets. Then check out Kond, one of Yerevan’s oldest neighborhoods (about a 20-minute walk from the center) to see remnants from the Ottoman and Persian eras.

25 Find a driver for day trips. 

When traveling outside the city, it’s best to hire a driver for a day with a flat rate—with the added bonus that the drivers are eager to share their knowledge. If you prefer a group setting, there are daily trips and tours (in English) on air-conditioned buses to notable sites, such as to the Garni Temple, Geghart, and Lake Sevan, (about 45 minutes outside Yerevan and Armenia’s largest body of water), offered by Huyr Service. Just 35 miles outside Yerevan, Lake Sevan is also a US$10 trip, each way, by taxi. The resort town of Dilijan, known as Little Switzerland for its Alpine climate and mountain meadows, is an hour and a half outside Yerevan. You can hire a driver for a flat rate of about US$30 each way. Or you can grab a marshrutka to Dilijan, leaving from Yerevan’s Northern Station.