Akhtamar Church News
With a backdrop of rugged mountains and the impossibly blue waters of Lake Van, it is a heavenly spot to hear a church Mass; and yet for the past 95 years, there had not been one, until Sunday.
“My parents are dead, my grandparents are dead, and I'm left with the memory of what this place was to them. Armenians were here for three millennia”
Paul ShahenianListening to the glorious sounds of the ancient Armenian liturgy in that setting was a profoundly moving experience; hundreds of Armenians had travelled, from Istanbul and also from the diaspora - from the United States, from Greece, Germany, even Armenia itself - to celebrate this symbolic reconnection with the land of their ancestors.
It was all the more moving, knowing they were praying among the ruins of the monastery - there was no room for them inside the 42-sq-m (452-sq-ft) nave of the church; the monks and priests were all killed in 1915, along with most of the population of the area.
The decision to allow the Armenian Patriarchate in Istanbul to hold a Mass there was made by the governing AKP, the party believes both in loosening restrictions on religion imposed by the secular state, and in improving relations with Turkey's minority groups.
"We believe that it is very important gesture towards freedom of faith," the provincial governor, Munir Karaoglu, told the BBC.
"Also we believe that it is important to eradicate the prejudices between the Turkish and Armenian people. It could also help improve relations Turkey and Armenia."
Those who had chosen to come saw this as a positive step by Turkey towards confronting its history in this area.
"Let's just say that this is a beginning," said Harry Parsekian, a retired estate agent from Boston, whose parents escaped the Armenian killings.
"I hope the Turkish authorities realise that this is an opening - it's just a symbolic gesture right now."
For others, coming back was difficult. Paul Shahenian had never been to Turkey before. His family came from Van, and his grandparents barely escaped the mass slaughter which began in April 1915.
"Coming here is a bittersweet experience," he said.
The Turkish authorities have not allowed a cross to be erected on the church's dome for the service
"My parents are dead, my grandparents are dead, and I'm left with the memory of what this place was to them. Armenians were here for three millennia. Even if the Turkish government wanted to reconcile, I don't know how they would begin. So I think this is a very good first step."
Paul said there had been strong pressure on his family not to come from the rest of the Armenian community.
Many Armenians boycotted this service, either because they do not trust a government which will not acknowledge the 1915 killings as a genocide, or over the government's refusal to hand the church back to the Armenian Patriarchate.
It is still officially a state museum, and the authorities would not allow a cross to be erected on the dome for the service.
So the numbers were smaller than expected - a few hundred, rather than the thousands the local government had been hoping to welcome.
The crush of journalists and the crowds of curious local sightseers who had been encouraged to come to the island for the occasion also robbed it of any spiritual atmosphere.
The church was built by the Armenian King Gagik in the 10th Century, and is the most complete ancient Armenian building left in Turkey.
As such it is very important to the Armenian community's sense of historical connection to this area - and that may be the reason the government is so wary of handing the church back.
Nationalists in Turkey still fear that Armenia has designs on their eastern provinces.
After all, the city of Van was briefly taken over by the Armenian community in 1915 after an armed uprising.
At the Treaty of Sevres in 1920, following the Ottoman defeat in World War I, the city was awarded to a new Armenian state.
It was only with the military successes of Turkish nationalists under Ataturk that the city reverted to Turkish rule.
"This government has been better than all the others," said Rober Koptas, editor-in-chief of Agos, the main Armenian newspaper in Istanbul.
"They renovated the church, which is great. But they must be braver. This was not enough. Most of Turkish society is ready to accept this is an Armenian church. Now it is the government's turn."
Sept 19 2010
CNN: `At least they cannot forbid me to pray silently,' Father Anno
For the first time in nearly a century, the Turkish government will
allow Armenian Christians to hold a prayer service in one of the
area's oldest and most famous churches, CNN reported.
More than two months before the scheduled September 19th church
service, nearby hotels were booked solid. Cunduz is hoping for a burst
of new tourist business.
`I hear up to 10,000 Armenian visitors will be coming,' he says, as he
steers his boat towards a small island at one end of the lake.
Nestled amid the rocks, stands a stone church with a pointed dome.
Armenian Christians built it 11 centuries ago. The only way to get to
Akhtamar Church is by boat.
Visitors have to climb up a steep pathway to reach the church's low
entrance, where on a recent visit, chanting echoed from inside the
building.
Inside, a man was seated barefoot in lotus position on the floor,
singing. His voice echoed off vaulted ceilings decorated with
hand-drawn icons painted cobalt blue and charcoal black.
An embarrassed Turkish security guard approached and interrupted.
`This is a museum. Prayer is illegal in here,' the guard explained.
`Even if someone comes and reads a poem out loud, even if a Muslim
prays here, we have to stop them.'
He offered the man a candle, and directed him towards a dark alcove in
the church where visitors were invited to light candles.
The singer turned out to be Father Anno Schulte-Herbrûggen, a visiting
Catholic priest from Austria.
`At least they cannot forbid me to pray silently,' Father Anno later said.
A few years ago, the church's roof was leaking, its ancient icons in
danger of being destroyed.
The Turkish government embarked on a million dollar restoration of the
building. It was re-opened in 2007, but this month will mark the first
time Armenians will be allowed to pray here.
The church is an architectural gem. Its rock exterior is decorated
with ornately carved sculptures of warriors, saints and gargoyles. The
façade is also scored with countless small crosses and Armenian
messages, apparently graffiti carved into the rock by pilgrims over
the centuries.
`This place is really wonderful!' exclaimed Dilan Bal, an ethnic Kurd
from Switzerland. `It's a church and we are Muslims... so its
interesting.'
Bal and several other friends from Europe had been performing
impromptu folk dances inside the church. They were among the day's
handful of visitors to Akhtamar.
The church stands as a lonely symbol of a culture that has all but
disappeared from this corner of Eastern Turkey.
Some observers hope Sunday's church service will mark a step towards
healing the deep scars left by this bloody chapter of history.
But suspicion between Armenians and Turks still runs deep.
Armenians have objected to the Turkish government's decision not to
allow a cross to be placed on the dome of the roof. In recent weeks,
Turkey has allowed a cross to be erected on the grounds in front of
the church.
Meanwhile, in October 2009, Turkey and Armenia signed U.S. and
European-backed agreements aimed at restoring normal diplomatic
relations between the two neighbors. But as of this month, the
Turkish-Armenian border, which is located less than 200 miles from
Akhtamar Island, still remains closed.
`The church, it belongs to the Armenians,' says Muzbah Cunduz, the
ferryboat captain. `But the land around here does not.'
Sept 18 2010
Archbishop Aram Ateshyan met with bunch of roses in Van
Armenian Deputy Patriarch of Constantinople Archbishop Aram Ateshyan
arrived in Van.
Ateshyan visited the Religious Council of Van. The primate of the
eparchy Nimertulla Arvas met him with roses. Ateshyan gave him a book
by Arsen Yarman `Role of Armenians in the Sphere of Medicine in
Ottoman Empire.' In his turn, Arvas gave Ateshyan an original gift, a
samovar.
Arbishop Ateshayn stressed the resumption of religious services in
Surb Khach is an important event for Armenians and is a dream of the
Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople. No liturgy has been held in
the church since after 1915. He also said the Armenians in
Constantinople are very excited over the September 19 liturgy in Surb
Khach.
As NEWS.am reported previously, September 19, a liturgy will be held
in Surb Khach Church. Holy See of Echmiadzin, Armenian Patriarchate
of Jerusalem and Holy See of Cilicia refused to take part in the
liturgy in Surb Khach (Holy Cross) on Akhtamar Island due to the
Turkish authorities' disgraceful decision to install the cross on the
church after the liturgy.
Sept 18 2010
Armenians visit Kars before Surb Khach church
Armenians that are visiting Kars on the occasion of the liturgy to be
held at Surb Khach (Holy Cross) church on Akhtamar Island, Van, on
September 19 have caused the local trade and services sector to
intensify its activities, a NEWS.am corresponding reports from Kars.
The route from Armenia to Van runs through Kars with its numerous
cultural and historical monuments. Armenians attach high importance to
cultural heritage and spend much money and time in Kars.
Interestingly, members of the Armenian community in Istanbul preferred
going to Van through Kars as well through the Istanbul-Van route does
not run through Kars. The Kars hotels, restaurants and stores did not
feel any lack of Armenian tourists on the occasion of the opening of
Surb Khach church.
The Kars residents are enthusiastic about such activity in the city.
`It is a pleasure to see the neighboring country's citizens in our
city. Tourists will boost the Kars economy,' said a middle-aged man,
who watched Armenians taking pictures in front of the Armenian
monastery in Kars. A travel agent said that on September 16-17 over
500 Armenians stayed at Kars hotels. Armenians from Armenia working in
Istanbul arrived in Kars as well.
news.am, Armenia
sept 18 2010
Armenian language newspaper `Van Times' to be published in Van
A few days before the liturgy at the Surb Khach Church it became known
that the `Van Times' is being published in the Armenian language as
well.
The correspondent of Armenian News -NEWS.am reports from Van; in the
first issue of the Van Times, the reflections about Surb Khach Church
on Akhtamar Island by a famous Turkish writer, Kemal Yaashara were
published.
Editors at Istanbul's weekly "Agos" helped to accomplish the plan of
publishing the Van Times in the Armenian language as well. Presently
the newspaper is published in Turkish, Kurdish, Persian and English
languages.
NEWS.am previously reported that Van Times organized the action
"Opening the doors of our homes to Armenians", to which the people of
Van responded positively.
Van Times intends to publish the phrase "Welcome" on the front page of
the Armenian version of the newspaper, on the day of the liturgy.
15:25 - 18.09.10
Aram Ateshyan, Vicar of the Patriarch of the Armenian Apostolic Church
in Constantinople, will serve on Sunday a liturgy at Sourb Khach
Church (Saint Cross) on Akhtamar Island, Lake Van, and eastern Turkey.
Armenians in Turkey, Armenia and across the world are now in great
disappointment after Turkish authorities backtracked on their promises
to have the cross on Sourb Khach restored before September 17, i.e.
the day of the long-awaited and much-trumped one-off mass that is
expected to bring thousands of believers to Akhtamar Island that day.
Now, just a day before the mass, Ankara is making a last effort to
save its show from ultimate failure.
According to Turkish media, Van's Governor Myunil Karaloglu said the
cross will be restored one and a half month after the mass as he
visited the church to check whether or not it was ready for the mass.
Saying that the church is fully ready for the ceremony, Mr Karaloglu
noted that Van's hotels are already full of guests. According to him,
some 3,500 tourists are expected to attend the ritual.
Earlier some 6,000 visitors were reportedly expected.
A cross previously kept at the Van museum has been transported to
Akhtamar Island, but it is unknown where in the church will the cross
be placed until it is re-installed, if ever.
Sept 19 2010
`No cross on Akdamar as wrong as Europe's minaret ban'
Not allowing a cross at the historic Armenian church on Akdamar
Islandin the eastern Turkish province of Van, which today has been
opened for a religious service for the first time in 95 years, would
be as wrong as the ban imposed by some European countries on the
construction of new minarets, a senior government official has said.
Upon a proposal by the Van Governor's Office and approval of the
Turkish Culture and Tourism Ministry, the church will host a religious
worship once a year, and the first ritual takes place today.
Justice and Development Party (AK Party) deputy leader Hüseyin �elik
said, in an exclusive interview with Sunday's Zaman, that the debates
on the need for a cross on the church are wrong.
`A ban on a cross on the church would be as wrong as the ban on
minarets in Europe. When the construction of minarets issue was made
the subject of a referendum in Europe and when the public disapproved
of the construction of minarets in the referendum, we were very
saddened and disturbed. It is out of the question for us to act the
same way,' Ã?elik said.
In 2009, Swiss voters shocked the world and surprised their pollsters
by approving a ban on the construction of minarets, the most symbolic
element of Islamic architecture, in Switzerland.
More than 57 percent of Swiss voters and 22 out of 26 cantons -- or
provinces -- voted in favor of the minaret ban, which led to great
disappointment in many Muslim countries, including Turkey, with regard
to respect for religious diversity in Europe.
Noting that the 900-year-old Church of the Holy Cross is of as great a
value for humanity as Ephesus or Pergamum, Ã?elik said what a crescent
means for Muslims is the same as what a cross means for Christians.
`Just as important as the elements of our mosques, a cross is that
important, as an inseparable element of a church. This issue is so
clear that it requires our empathy. Not solving the problem of the
absence of a cross on Akdamar would be as wrong as preventing a
crescent in a mosque. The existence of an integral part of the church,
the cross, does not make us lose anything, and its absence does not
make us win anything,' explained Ã?elik.
He also suggested that religious services be held in the church on
Akdamar Island throughout the year.
Many believe a religious service at the historic church, which is now
a state museum, could be a symbol of reconciliation between Turkey and
Armenia, two neighbors bitterly divided over history and the fate of
the disputed Nagorno-Karabakh region
Ã?elik underlined that the scope of religious freedoms in Turkey should
expand with the progress of democracy and that a reform package, which
was approved in a referendum on Sunday, will expand the scope of
freedom of religion, thought and expression, in addition to expanding
the scope of fundamental rights and freedoms.
Around 58 percent of Turks voted in favor of a 26-article
government-sponsored constitutional reform package on Sept. 12, which,
according to many, will bring Turkish democracy and the judiciary
closer to EU standards.
Noting that restrictions on religious freedoms are a legacy of the
single-party era in Turkey, Ã?elik said: `Religious freedoms of pious
citizens of this country have been restricted for years just like the
freedoms of non-Muslims. They were victimized and `otherized.' The
totalitarian mentality of the single-party era also victimized and
`otherized' Kurds and Alevis. The AK Party's conservatism is not one
that restricts freedoms; to the contrary, it is one that expands
freedoms. Just as we say zero tolerance to torture, we say zero
tolerance to all the obstacles confronting freedom of religion and
thought.'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Head of Religious Affairs: We support expansion of freedoms
Religious Affairs Directorate President Ali BardakoÄ?lu stated that
places of worship complement freedom of religion. `We are in favor of
expansion of freedoms. Just as church and cross will not Christianize
Turkey, minaret and crescent will not Islamize a Christian country,'
he said.
Stressing that people's need for places of worship should be met
regardless of their race, color, religion or geography, BardakoÄ?lu
said he was of the view that the need for a place of worship for
believers no matter in which country they live should be met.
He said he welcomes the holding of religious services and the placing
of religious symbols in places of worship.
`At the Religious Affairs Directorate, we support tolerance for people
from various views. We support expansion of freedoms. Turkey does not
deserve to be seen as a country where religious freedoms are
restricted. Turkey will not be harmed due to the opening of churches
or other places of worship. We have places of worship in Rhodes,
Western Thrace and Macedonia that are waiting to be opened for
religious service. Meeting the demands of Muslims for the opening of
their places of worship there will not cause harm to anybody. To the
contrary, it will make a big contribution to societal peace,' said
BardakoÄ?lu.
19 September 2010, Sunday
ALI ASLAN KILIÃ? ANKARA
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